Thailand has long branded itself as “amazing“. Singapore has been, well, “uniquely” Singapore for a while now. And Malaysia has spent millions trying to be “truly Asia“. As part of this region-wide mania, Vietnam even ran a contest to come up with its own unique brand. It seems that every country wants to be something special and have a special stamp of national tourism pride.
But what about Burma?
Perhaps any tourist brand will be a hard sell under that country’s current rulers. The military regime, for its part, has made some efforts to motivate interest in “Mystical Myanmar“. But I have never been under the impression that the phrase has exactly caught on.
When I was last there, some retailers in Yangon’s tourist markets had made some new additions to the standard selection of “Golden Land” and “Myanmar – Yangon” t-shirts. Two new slogans particularly caught my eye: “I Love Myanmar” (replete with a love heart and a map of the country) and another that proclaimed “Happy Land: Myanmar”.
These “Happy Land” t-shirts were on sale for a few thousand kyat. Their garish representation of the country’s cultural geography fits the official perspective on Burma’s “harmonious” national territory. Obviously this simple image ignores the ongoing insurgencies in many areas of the country, the difficult ceasefires of other areas, and the military’s ongoing repression of dissent.
Visitors who do get outside the main tourist quarter of Yangon would – one would hope - see the irony in this image.
But that irony still seems to be lost on some.
I was reminded of the “Happy Land” slogan by an article I spotted in the San Jose Mercury News. It chronicles a three-week visit to Burma by Jay Solmonson. He joined a tour to Yangon (of the Shwedagon, he writes: “To our little band of Westerners, it was Wonderland”), Bagan, Inle Lake, and Mandalay.
For New Mandala readers unfamiliar with the military government’s preferred tourist itinerary I should highlight that Solmonson followed their script to perfection. As he says, “I don’t go looking for trouble”. Solmonson’s main article is accompanied by a short justification for this trip to Burma. He writes, “I felt as safe in Myanmar as in any country I have visited. And I have never seen so many people seem so happy with so little”.
Even though his tour group became “disheveled”, they did eventually make it back to Yangon’s “venerable” Strand Hotel. Covered in the dirt of the road, Solmonson writes that “we could put on a happy face. The face of Myanmar”. This persistent image of a smiling, happy country (”We also spent a lot of time smiling on the road to Mandalay”; “zigzagged through the multitude…accompanied by smiles”) oozes from Solmonson’s account.
Of course, reports of a “Happy Land” are precisely what the generals, and their minions in the tourism bureaucracy, hope to hear. They want the world to see Burma uncritically: with its “happy” people and their shared peace and development.
Journalists who unthinkingly corroborate the military government’s line do their readers and the people of Burma a profound disservice.
I certainly agree that it will be a wonderful day when a slogan like “Happy Land: Myanmar” can be proclaimed with a straight face. That day isn’t today.
And that is nothing to smile about.
10 responses so far ↓
1 Jon Fernquest // Apr 2, 2007 at 3:09 am
Every tourism major must excel in the art of smiling and explaining their culture to foreigners.
The elite valedictorians of the class go on to become stewardesses at Japan airlines.
What I’m actually describing is the Thai university I taught at, which is probably a good predictor of Burma’s future.
If I had my druthers, I’d have them all become doctors or engineers, but I’m not in charge of reality. (fortunately)
IMHO On the other hand, most books about Burma are doom and gloom books, so sometimes a little non-doom and gloom is good. Like this little girl in the market once explained to me with a big proud smile that she had picked the Kazun-ywe (Thai: Pat-boong) by the side of the road. Smiles keep people going in depressing circumstances sometimes.
Check out: Chomsky on Burma policy, from Bangkok Post Perspective Sunday April 01, 2007:
“McLeod: The US has imposed trade sanctions on the Burmese junta. Given the brutality of the Burmese regime, do you think that this is an example of the US taking a positive stance in the region?
Chomsky: The US can have and occasionally does have benign influences on many things. Now exactly how to deal with the Burmese junta is a question that has to be raised.
Burma has a rotten, horrible government and surely, someone should try to help the Burmese people to free themselves from it, but the question of exactly how to do it is not simple.
Sanctions often backfire – you really have to think of the right means of doing it. Sometimes, engagement is more effective.
You really have to think this through, you cannot just have formulas.”
http://www.bangkokpost.com/Perspective/01Apr2007_pers02.php
2 book » “…put on a happy face. The face of Myanmar” // Apr 2, 2007 at 3:45 am
[...] pablopalazzi wrote an interesting post today onHere’s a quick excerptCovered in the dirt of the road, Solmonson writes that “we could put on a happy face. The face of Myanmar”. This persistent image of a smiling, happy country (”We also spent a lot of time smiling on the road to Mandalay”; … [...]
3 Sawarin // Apr 2, 2007 at 3:48 am
I like this report Nich.
How about ‘Aloha Junta-Aloha Burma’?
4 book » Comment on “…put on a happy face. The face of Myanmar” by Jon … // Apr 2, 2007 at 5:24 am
[...] Nicholas Farrelly wrote an interesting post today onHere’s a quick excerptEvery tourism major must excel in the art of smiling and explaining their culture to foreigners. The elite valedictorians of the class go on to become stewardesses at Japan airlines. What I’m actually describing is the Thai university I … [...]
5 aiontay // Apr 2, 2007 at 7:54 am
If I remember correctly, back in 1995 there was an Esquire magazine article that was about travel in Burma and commenting on the smiles in Burma it said something to the effect that although the people may be oppressed, they weren’t depressed becasue they were smiling all the time.
Of course, what else can you do but smile? If you lose your temper at the idiots running the country, well that’ll land you in jail, at the least, so keep on smiling.
6 Pig Latin // Apr 2, 2007 at 10:34 am
Macabre!
Great post Nich, thanks!
7 BarNyar // Apr 2, 2007 at 6:06 pm
Hey It’s not such irony here in Myanmar. I’m frm myanmar and I’m happy and smiling with the situation here.
8 Maylee Thavat // Apr 3, 2007 at 3:04 am
I laughed out loud
9 Amateur // Apr 3, 2007 at 11:46 pm
Excuse me, can any one tell me WHO this Jay Solmonson is? Is he a media figure of any importance at all or just a poor littly local writer, whose account of ignorance should not deserve much more than a merciful smile?
I am not for isolating Burma, but tourists like Jay are counterproductive. Unfortunately, the majority of Burma tourists are like him.
10 New Mandala » “Take a different trek”…to “timeless” Burma // May 5, 2007 at 3:45 am
[...] I have highlighted in the past, the self-censorship of tourism writing on Burma must give the generals reason to smile. [...]
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