Over the last couple of years I have been fortunate to travel widely throughout the borderlands where Burma, China and India come together. In this time I have spent many hours bumping along the trans-regional connection, now often called the Stilwell Road, that was constructed by allied forces during World War II. As many readers know, the road from Ledo in Assam went all the way to Kunming. It was designed to re-supply troops fighting the Japanese in China. But in all my time on the road I had not, until last week, seen a sign marking this epic linkage.
What follows are a few pictures taken from the “Stilwell Park” just near Ledo. I hope New Mandala readers find them interesting or useful.
- The route to Kunming is marked out on this map under the catchy slogan: “Rejuvenate our lifeline; Revitalize our relationship; Reach out beyond the borders”. The political figure who erected the sign has gone on to become Assam’s Minister for Industries & Commerce, Power (Electricity) & Public Enterprises.
- The local take on the history of the road in English and Assamese.
- A close-up of the historical details.
- The road with the big sign in the background.
- A part of the road that is currently being refurbished. My understanding is that prominent local figures hope to have the Indian portion of the road to the Burma border completely rebuilt by some time in 2010.
Interesting stuff. You are indeed privileged to have travelled through this area that few visit.
http://www.angkor.com/2bangkok/2bangkok/forum/showthread.php?p=20030#post20030
The above post has borrowed just one of your pictures, and quoted a little of your text, with a link to your blog post above indicating that your entire article is worth checking out. Hopefully you won’t mind too much, because there are a number of interesting newspaper article quotes that are highly relevant. There is also a map scan to compare with your Stilwell Park poster board.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Thanks. Vicarious tourism is fun and a lot more easy and comfortable than the real thing.
“It was designed to re-supply troops fighting the Japanese in China. ”
And the book that brings it all alive is Sir Christopher Bayly and Tim Harper’s magisterial Forgotten Armies. The Fall of British Asia 1941-45 with Dr Tim Harper (2004) .
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Chennault,
Of course, that is no problem at all – thanks for asking!
Thanks Jon,
I will chase up Forgotten Armies. It sounds like a great read.
All best wishes,
Nich
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Can anyone pinpoint Ledo? I can’t find it on any map. I’ve seen several maps with roads marked as ‘Ledo’ or ‘Stilwell Road’, but never Ledo itself.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Hi Chennault,
Ledo is just on the Assam side of the border between Arunachal Pradesh and Assam. A map (but without much detail) is available here.
This map of Tinsukia district gives a more detailed picture of how everything fits together, and places Ledo quite precisely compared to other available sources.
Today Ledo is a relatively small town. Tinsukia is, on the other hand, a really substantial trading and industrial centre.
As an aside, there is a big hard-left political presence in those parts. The “hammer and sickle” are to be seen painted on many walls in the towns of upper Assam.
All best wishes,
Nich
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Slightly East of Magherita, but not as far as the Likhapani railway on this war-derived map and zoomed inset:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/aa/Allied_lines_of_communication_in_Southeast_Asia%2C_1942-43.jpg
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ledo_Road
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
From your map it looks like the railhead is now Digboi. Or Dingboi on some maps. There is coal mining in these hills right? Hence the hard-left presence. Having lived in mining towns, I definitely sympathise – even if I may not always vote that way myself.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Yes, Chennault,
There is coal mining in those there hills. It is a huge industry, and is, no pun intended, the bedrock of some township economies. Digboi is also an integral part of India’a oil industry and Assam Oil has been there since colonial times.
Even though it is not marked on that map, I think that the railway spur out to Ledo is still used. The railway station in Tinsukia is a big one and I think that the trains still run out to Ledo. That said, rail services in upper Assam (perhaps apart from the coal transport) have a mixed reputation these days. Not sure how regular any services would be.
Best wishes to all,
Nich
Quality comment or not?
1 
0
Assam native me(pun intended)..sorry if I dug this up late but if you have been blessed enough to travel by the Indian Railways..The “Rajdhani Express” starting New Delhi travels twice a week till Dibrugarh beyond Tinsukia. Overnight trains go upto Ledo daily from Guwahati – capital of Assam…you are right probably nothing much has changed about this part from WW2..if Gen Stilwell were to walk into Ledo today he might still recognise it! Hopefully that would change for the better if Uncle Joe’s old road is operational again and some worthwhile trade flows through it…Cheers!
Quality comment or not?
1 
0
Hello all
My name in Michael Geary and i am planning a trip overland from London to Singapore. I would particularly like to talk in detail with Nicholas Farrelly.
We have so far 4 landrovers 1 of which is a total replica used in the 1955 trip. Several studants are coming on the trip from Cambridge university and with this they bring many sponsers and grants.
One major thing we want to know is……
There -is- a checkpoint at Pansaung, just down the road from Ledo in Changlang District in Arunachal Pradesh, but it is not open to foreigners. We need to convince the authorities in Myanmar to give us a one time special permit to cross at Pansaung. Do you know of any one particular government official in Yangon that you need to correspond with or how to go about this?
The Commerce Minister Jairam Ramesh in New Delhi is obviously talking with the people in Myanmar who are responsible for the Ledo Road area. We wondered if he could help, once he heard about our convoy ?
When corresponding with officials in Myanmar, we think it would probably be a good idea to suggest that we understand and expect that we will have an escort as far as the tiger reserve in the Hukaung Valley or something.
Do you think we stand any chance
regards michael geary email michaelgeary2003@yahoo.co.uk
thanks
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Thanks Michael,
I have sent you a note by e-mail with some thoughts on your plans. For the record, it sounds like an epic trip!
Best wishes,
Nich
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Mike
Please check my email as well
Sanj
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Dear Michael
I will also send you an email as I probably have more recent experience of both legal and illegal travel in relation to these borders on both the China and India side than most at the moment. But, for the more general record (as Nic has it) – this may be an ‘epic trip’ but if you are seriously planning to negotiate having a Myanmar government military escort through this region ‘up to Hukawng’, perhaps you could ask them for their side of the story on the increasing numbers of sexual abuses against local women committed by their soldiers along this road. I have seen very recent documentation of this and it is something I will never forget as long as I live – and thus feel compelled to mention in this context as it is still haunting me. This road through to Hukawng is becoming netorious for these kinds of events, and much more besides. ‘Grants’ ‘sponsors’ and a replica jeep don’t necessarily mean you should project your own adventurism on this space for the thrill of it. I hope you are all preparing yourselves properly. I doubt if anything will come of it (and wish you good luck with managing the outfall if it does).
Mandy
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Thank you for all these fanastic emails as for the military escourt. If we do manage to gain permission to enter Myanmar at Pangsau Pass and are allowed to use the ledo road with out escourt this would be great but if we end up having an escourt i dont think it would be a good idea to upset any member of the escourt by asking about these sexuall assults as it could ruin our trip. We may even risk being shot.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Michael,
Before you jump to any more conclusions about what might “ruin [y]our trip”, I will take this opportunity to reinforce Mandy’s helpful comments. This time it is, quite properly, for the record and I hope that other potential expeditioners out there also find it useful.
In fact, the sexual abuses that Mandy highlights for your benefit are just the tip of the iceberg. She has politely ignored the other aspects of local history (that she knows so well) that make your proposed route difficult in all sorts of ways. And right now, of all times, there is much to commend an alternative.
To a different expedition that asked for my advice on the “Burma problem” I suggested that attempting to drive from India to Singapore via Nepal, China, Laos, Thailand and Malaysia, may, at the end of the day, be the best (but by no means an easy) option. This would mean never even seeing Ledo, let alone driving the Ledo Road. [Of course, there is no reason to expect that the Chinese would allow such an expedition to hop freely around Tibet right now or at anytime in the next couple of years.] But it may still, from where I sit, end up cheaper, easier, safer, and more likely to succeed than an attempt to get permission to drive through Burma (although, as you know, a few have done it in the past…it doesn’t follow that it will be doable in future). As I said in my e-mail, there is a strong chance that even with a “permit” any expedition could be abruptly turned around at the Indo-Burmese frontier, or anywhere else in this region for that matter. Frankly, nothing would be certain until you made it to Thailand.
To get some more perspective on why this is one of the most problematic sections of road for any round-the-world or trans-Asia expedition the account in Who needs a road? The story of the longest and last motor journey around the world (which I assume you are familiar with) is certainly worth re-reading. For those who haven’t read it, the outline is that they get stranded in Bangladesh in, as I recall, 1965 during a war and end up having to ship their expedition to Singapore. They then drive up through Malaysia to northern Thailand…they never drive in Burma, it is the missing piece of their global puzzle. And any expedition going that way would have to be prepared for some analogous disruption(s).
And as I have just discovered, right now one of the leaders of that team, Harold Stephens, is doing his own Trans-Asia Expedition. This is over 40 years since he first did such a huge road journey. Awesome. But he is not taking his group to Burma and, if you look closely, it is clear that he is doing a huge circle acround the continent and going (almost) everywhere but Burma. His team will ship their vehicles from Chittagong (in eastern Bangladesh) to Singapore…and then drive back to Bangkok. Still epic – absolutely!
So Mandy’s right (again) – I hope you are preparing yourselves well.
For a taste of life along the Ledo Road in the present day I would start with the excellent daily coverage by the Kachin News Group. I would, if I was you, try to read everything they have ever put up on their site – it is the best source of news on the Ledo Road and surrounds. And then I would ask people (such as Mandy) who know these areas well why there are problems with taking adventure to this particular road on the romantic route from London to Singapore.
Their answers may surprise you.
Best wishes to all,
Nich
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
I now have a good contact in Rangoon who works for the burmese government and who has traveled on some of the ledo road. She is going to try to talk to certian people from the government and try to find out what she can for me.
If we get permission we plan to meet her at Pangsau pass and travel with her down to rangoon where we will have a few days rest.
There is a check point at Pangsau pass near the ledo road, its just not an official one, what we need is a one time permit what would allow us to pass there. Im hoping the Indian commerce minsiter Jairam Ramesh will be able to help us here because he is the one trying as had as he can to re open the ledo road.
We are ging to the forign office to ask to be put in contact with him or one of his officials.
regards michael geary
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
last trip through burma by landrover was last year by a french couple. i am waiting for a reply email from these and the year before the drive around the world team drove through it too.
http://www.drivearoundtheworld.com
click burma
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Michael,
You’re right – the trip across the Indo-Burmese frontier you are proposing has been done more than a few times. There are precedents. For example, just off the top of my head, back in 2006 there was even something called the Indo-Burmese Car Rally sponsored by both country’s militaries. They took the more southerly route, in a convoy of 14 or so vehicles, via Moreh. The Indian Defence Minister flagged them off in New Delhi. They eventually made it to Yangon and, along their journey, they sought to honour the many Indian and Burmese war dead who fell during the Second World War.
When you do make it down the Ledo Road I hope you will find the time to put together a short report about it for New Mandala. We await it with anticipation…
Good luck,
Nich
P.S. Any New Mandala readers following this discussion and still wanting more will find this thread over at the Lonely Planet Thorn Tree rewards a visit.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
“[If we] are allowed to use the ledo road with out escourt this would be great but if we end up having an escourt i dont think it would be a good idea to upset any member of the escourt by asking about these sexuall assults as it could ruin our trip. We may even risk being shot.”
In my private email to you, Michael, I offered to meet with you and to give you some advice and possible contacts. I now withdraw that offer. Probably you don’t care about that that – I assure you I care even less. I expect also that most other people will now have a clearer idea of how trivial your interests in and knowledge about this area are as well. Good luck. Enjoy your holiday.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Firstly i would like to say a very big SORRY to mandy.
Its very had to understand what, the situation in nothern myanmar is like with out seeing if for my self. You hear about the killings and rapes but as you says and im sure your right, thats the tip of the ice burg.
So just for you, if we get out pass i will put a small report containging interviews with locals together just for you. Its my way of appoligizing.
Lets hope the generals dont find out i am filming as already we have been told if we intend to take photographs we may have to pay for permission.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
I haven’t heard of anyone using the Ledo Road for crossing into Burma from India. I know of at least two groups that have crossed at Moreh/Tamu but none along the Stilwell Road. I went as far as the Burma border (Nampong?) when I was a child and my recollection was that there was no real road on the other side. Even if it is motorable now, it is unlikely to be all-weather and it is unlikely that the junta will let you see it.
Also, recent reports, as Mandy has indirectly pointed out, point to a guerilla war going on in the Kachin States between the Nagas (who are not recognized by the Burmese junta as an independent ethnic group) and the Burmese military along with stuff that is pretty much up there in the territory of war crimes. I seriously doubt that the Burmese junta will let anyone travel, even under escort, in that part of the world. Try Moreh/Tamu instead.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Michael, sounds like you’re taking Little Britain to Singapore..
Ernest Activist: “They’re raping and pillaging”,
“Yeah I know”…
EA: “err..”
“I mean I gotta see it for myself, am an empiricist after all – it’s the British way” EA: “yes, I suppose you want to film the raping and pillaging and sell it to the world service?”
“I’ll do it for a kipper and chips!, it’s the British way tarrah!”
Also, I’d be extremely interested to see these local interviews you film.
“Oi you there, … yeah you… you want me to take your photo of you?”
Local: “…”
“I’ll do it for free you silly local, bet you’ve never even tasted chips or a fine lager”
L: “…”
“Here you are, got an email address? Oh yeah! Hah, email out here, Im havin’ a larf”
L: * starts to walk away*
“Oi where’dju think your goin’ then? You’re me guide, now where can I put my new road for me four-wheel drives – don’t want much dirt on them y’see, can’t have a Land Rover that looks like it’s been used, will halve the re-sale value”
L: *runs*
” Typical, can’t appreciate a good bit o’ culture”
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Hi, the whole piont of our trip is to use as much of the original route that the ‘first overland far eastern expedition’ crew used in 1955. Hence the need to use the Ledo Road.
My contact in Myanmar who works for the embassey has traveled the road from Pangsau to Bhamo by 4×4 and assures me as long as we travel it in march we will make it.
Once we have spoken to the Indian Minister of Commerce Jairam Ramesh, the man talking to myanmar officials about re opening the road, and trying his dammed hardest, Then we will know where we stand because by having him backing us we stand as gooder chance as any.
This road is due to be re-opened by 2010 anyway but we want to travel it while an adventure can still be had.
michael
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Nobody like critisism we are doing our best. We have alot to plan, its no just myanmar thats got its problems.
as for email we have satelite. and phone and GPS.
At least we are trying,
This is all new to me im only the mechanic
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
My contact in yangon informs me, after asking that the Kachin people are very friendly but very little means alot the them as they dont have much.
Apparently they are more than happey to talk to forigners interested in thier stories. They want the western would to know.
She also tells me we are to be careful as we may be escourted back out of the country if caught.
She recomends talking to the locals about the corruption and the junta whilst trading on lake Inle.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Regular New Mandala readers (or those who just stumble upon this thread) may want to pursue this story before they head off for adventures on the Ledo Road.
Best wishes to all,
Nich
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Dear all,
I’d like to add my two-penneth, being one of the members of the proposed expedition from the University of Cambridge who Michael mentions in his first post.
Firstly, can I thank all of you who have contributed your advice, and we all greatly respect your knowledge and evident experience in these areas. We certainly could not imagine attempting the route without the information which those like yourselves contribute.
We still intend to pursue the option of the Ledo Road. Personally Mandy, I think the issue of sexual abuse in Myanmar is one which deserves greater media coverage, and while Michael is understandably cautious of dangerously upsetting the fragile situation which may allow our presence there, it is certainly an issue which I would like to uncover in any press which the expedition achieves.
While the sense of adventure is naturally a large contributor to our motives for attempting the expedition, discovery, and honest press representation are also major factors. Travelling the Ledo Road would be highly symbolic, for ourselves, for like minded expeditioners, and hopefully for all those wishing for peace and more favourable diplomatic conditions in Myanmar – summarised in the slogan which Nicholas Farrelly quotes towards the top of this page; “Rejuvenate our lifeline; Revitalize our relationship; Reach out beyond the borders”.
Many thanks again for your advice.
Theo
tdf24@cam.ac.uk
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Hey Theo
Good stuff! I am willing to support your enterprise at absolutely no cost( almost kidding!). Well on a serious note if there is something that I personally want to do with this life of mine, is to open up the road from Assam to Burma and beyond. Dont want to rename the road after me….just be a small part of it. India’s got cold feet over it…Burma’s shaky…only China seems to be interested(obviously for a cheaper/shorter alternative to the Malacca straits roundabout to export her goods into the West and import energy resources). But its going to be huge economic boon for Assam if it is going to handle almost 60% of the world’s trade now seaborne. Its a complex situation but a trip like yours over the ol’ road sure gives it the attention it deserves…Thanks man
Sangos
Assam
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Thanks for your support, Sangos. We’ll do our best!
Theo
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
For all the dreamers thinking of doing the famous Ledo road from India right through Burma and to China, what you need is a good bulldozer at the head of your convoy. Many parts of unsealed dirt road are now blocked by landslides and mud flow.
Military escort would also be useless as the Burmese army presence would only attract KIA and all sorts of Kachin rebels. Just carry a large cross and they would let you cross their territory.
Years back KIA militia used to ambush the army convoys with deadly result and many collateral civilian dead. Even near Myitkyina is not safe at all.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Neither of which is a good idea!! So that means anybody on the Stilwell Road would have to get the goodwill of the Kachins, maybe even the Burmese(Army). So that means Theo you would have to do the trip by invitation, rather than gatecrash(not good). The task seems daunting just like old Stilwell had against marauding Japanese in WW2. I am sure if the enlightened contributors of this forum put our heads togther a solution would be found. ANy ideas?
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
In the summer of 2003, a team from National Geographic did the month long trip of almost the whole Ledo road from the Burmese side near Pangsau at India’s border to Kunming in China. Their excellent article about the trip is still at this site.
http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/features/world/asia/myanmar/burma-road-text.htm
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
We certainly intend to obtain permission before travelling along the road. The recent land slides will hopefully no longer be blocking the road when we plan to be there, but this is of course often going to cause a problem.
Hla Oo, thanks for directing us to the National Geographic article. I’d heard about it before but couldn’t find it. I can’t open the link, but can reach it from the info you’ve given me.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Good stuff! Not much change from 2003. So I guess the best bet for a tour over the Road (especially Burmese) would be along the same lines as the one in the NG article. So Theo that goes for you – we need a good reason for you to be on that Road in Myanmar. Sorry if we are stepping ahead of something but unless you had some other shortcuts in mind, getting the concerned authorities excited about your trip would need some creativity. You know what I mean – like a NG re-visit to a WW2 relic by a couple of their explorer journos. Heres the newer link btw
http://stage.ngm.nationalgeographic.com/features/world/asia/myanmar/burma-road-text
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Your are welcome Theo. I still have an extra copy of that National Geographic magazine with the Burma Road article. The magazine article is definitely better than the Internet article (More photos and detail maps). If you guys need that magazine I could mail it to you.
Just seeing the photo of a collapsed bridge the NG team had to fix to cross a raging mountain stream would make you guys think more than twice about going on that road, I reckoned.
These mountain streams are so extremely dangerous, one minute they are just the rock-beds and next minute transformed into rushing torrents depending on the unseen rains at their headwaters.
I was in the army in the seventies and I once used to fight KIA along the Ledo road and witnessed so many people, both Burmese and Kachins, getting killed on that bloody road. That dirt road still means a lot to me.
By the way, I have to remind you about the mud too. Once the Ledo road’s mud hit the axle you do need a bulldozer to pull your 4×4 out of the quagmire.
Thanks Sangos for the newer link.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Check the Arunachal Pradesh(India) part of the road in Chao’s blog
http://www.travelblog.org/Asia/India/Arunachal-Pradesh/Pangsau-Pass/blog-167991.html
[Btw dont count on what you see in that blog to be operational when you show up. Its the highway for Naga and Assam militants and can be off limits depending on the security situation - like in the NG article].
Hla Oo’ s updates are important. It means no 4×4 SUVs on the ‘road’ if you call it that, after Pangsau village[maybe a few kms]?.
Now the question is where does a motorable(at least seasonal) start down the trail? Hla Oo, you mentioned Myitkyina being unsafe for foreigners, unsafe from whom – am confused.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Hi everyone,
Just to clarify, Myitkyina is not unsafe. In fact, you would have to be relatively unlucky (as someone carrying a foreign-passport) to run into too much trouble in the Kachin State, unless you really went looking for it. These days the KIA (or whoever) is the least of your worries. Things change but, right now, vast areas of the Kachin State are easy to get around and most of the Stilwell Road is a simple trip. No fancy four-wheel drives required. Even in the wet season.
Does that change things?
Discussing the plans of various adventurers and thrill-seekers with someone wise who knows this area well, we both agreed that keeping cars on the road (i.e. out of ditches, out of the trees), not knocking over any pedestrians, and then managing all of the interest in yourselves and your agenda will be the major challenges.
Trips like this have been done before; and they will be done again.
But, to my eye, they need purpose. Mandy Sadan’s comments further up this thread may help to illuminate why that matters.
Best wishes to all,
Nich
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Sangos, I didn’t mean Myitkyina was unsafe now. I wrote, “Years back KIA militia used to ambush the army convoys with deadly result and many collateral civilian dead. Even near Myitkyina is not safe at all.”
The remote part of Ledo Road between Namti ( that is up north from Mogaung) and Myitkyina used to be a hot spot for ambushes years back before the ceasefire between the Burmese Army and various Kachin armed groups.
That whole area was, or still is, controlled by the KIA( Kachin Independence Army) since the beginning of the Kachin rebellion. To counter that the army built many strategic villages, called Pa-la-na villages in Burmese, along the Ledo Road and mainly populated them with the retired Kachin soldiers from the army and the land-starved Burmese farmers moving up from the low lands like Indaw and Mogaung.
Like what China is doing in Tibet and Uighur, Burma is following with its own Burmanization of Kachin Land. But obviously it also created a huge racial tension in the area and the result was the violent clashes all over that section of Ledo Road for a very long time.
But the situations now has changed to the better as the result of current ceasefire. From China border to Myikyina, the Burma Road is now sealed and all weather usable. They even built a bridge, called Balaminhtin Bridge, over wide Irrawaddy from Khatcho on the west bank near Myikyina to Waimaw on the east bank.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
These discussions, warnings and points of advice are just what we need. Thanks again.
As for the mud, we’ll be travelling in a convoy of three Land Rovers (plus escort if desirable) with numerous recovery winches and other equipment. Getting stuck may be frequent, but not prohibiting. Raging torrents remain a worry, however.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
The long discussion on the a Cambridge team sounds interesting nothwithstanding the varied opinions that came through.As a scholar interested in events of the Second World War in North East India, I would be glad if the trip materialises and we get photographs of graves of unknown Indians both civilians and army men.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Sarah
A large cemetery of about a 1000 graves of American/Chinese soldiers was discovered next tot he Ledo Road in Arunachal Pradesh, India. Check my blog here for links to more info/Photos:
http://www.ww2f.com/wwii-today/23666-wwii-ghost-american-road-might-come-alive-again.html
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Sangos
Thanks a lot for the information.I could not get through your photographs as I do not have a log in address.I am into preliminary research on Secong World War and North East India.Will be organising a Seminar on the topic in February 2009 at Rajiv Gandhi University,Itanagar,Arunachal Pradesh,where I am a faculty.These leads will help me construct the history of this period which rarely goes beyond recording the achievements of soldiers.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
No problem. Since you are from Arunachal Pradesh, do you have any latest updates about the international search team who were retrieving crashed WW2 planes there.
That seminar looks promising. Wish you every success.
Btw the link to the blog is good.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Sangos,
The search for the missing planes are being carried out in the area populated by the Mishmis.The was an article in February this year in India Today.I have asked my research scholar to present a paper on the new documemts available in that area.I hope the Seminar helps bring to focus these unknown facets.Will keep you posted.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
I don’t know if any of you have actually TRVELLED on the Ledo Road?
By that, I mean from Myitkyina, all the way close to the Indian border via the Hukawang Valley?
I am actually the one who have organized two trips up there and if all goes well, another trip is scheduled for Feb 2009.
It is informative to read U Hla Oo’s comments however, I only take people on the road who aren’t into politics.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Well the only politics we do now is “Yes we can!”…..Khine just kidding…good to hear from you lady and your upcoming expedition…Theo do you have any updates about your hitting the Ledo trail sometime this winter?
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Khine, thanks for the complement. I went to your BCI Expeditions site and found your tours quiet interesting. I would really like to do the Ledo road tour once my situations allow me to. I have a suggestion about your tours though.
A couple of interesting books written by the insiders about that region and Burma as a whole as complementary or accompanying books would excite your clients or prospective clients if you let them read before the trips or during the trips. There are such rare books written by Burmese authors and published on internet book-web-site lulu.com.
The book “Song for Irrawaddy” could be an ideal book for Burma Road Tour and Kachin Land as the novel was based on actual events happened in the same areas your groups has to pass through.
http://www.lulu.com/content/3699829
The book “Twentieth Century Burmese Matriarch” could be another ideal book for any Burma Tour as it is the memoir of a prominent Burmese family during the periods from the colonial times to the beginning of Ne Wins’ dictatorship.
http://www.lulu.com/content/1933126
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Dear U Hla Oo and Sangos,
Thanks for the messages!
U Hla Oo, thanks for the info on the books. I will definitely take a look at them later on the Internet when I have more time. I do have a collection of books, articles , reports and photos related to the CBI Theater also known as the Burma Campaign and other interesting periodicals on Burma.
I grew up during the Ne Win era, my father was from the Air Force and since he passed on, we have no connection what-so-ever with the government personnel although a few of my father’s friends are still alive living a quiet life away from the government circle.
My website http://www.cbiexpeditions.com has been set up as a tool for those who wish to travel back in time, especially to see the “road” and also to visit regions that aren’t too far off from the road. I have traveled quite extensively within the country as I return to Burma almost every year when I was living in Europe and the States.
I’ve live and worked in Europe and in America for a number of years working in different organizations but returned to Burma about 4 years ago, to see if I can do something back here.
Currently , I am working as a full-time language instructor at a French school and I organize these WWII related tours during school holidays so that I can accompanying people. Obviously, I love to travel.
As I have a full time job, I cannot run a travel company. I use a small travel agency for all my tours who does all the ground arrangements for me for the past Ledo trips and also for the amazing trip in search of “Broadway”, one of the Chindit’s strong holds somewhere in the Northern part of Burma. Yes, I managed to locate it with a 86-year old Chindit and his family.
The next Ledo Road Expedition is scheduled for beginning of Feb 2009. Hopefully, we’ll be able to reach the Pangsau pass this time!
For further info or if there is anything I can help you with, please email me at khaingt@gmail.com
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Dear Khine, what I still remember is that Broadway was built in the jungle south of Indaw by the second Chindit expedition as a landing-base to attack the huge Japanese base then at Indaw on the Mandalay-Myitkyina rail line.
It must be a wonderful experience to rediscover it again for a former Chindit after more than 60 years. Congratulations. I don’t think there are too many Chindits still alive and well now!
I grew up in the cadets and most of my highschool classmates ended up in DSA and almost all of them were killed during seventies and eighties, except a couple who are now generals in SPDC. One is in the airforce.
My then close friend, Khin Maung Oo, was a captain in the airforce and he was killed when his T33 crashed into another T33 flew by his flight major over Rangoon while they were filming each other for the 1983 or 84 armed-forces day. He was a shan and he was only 23 then. As a airforce child, may be you knew or heard of him.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Just came across this site and am very impressed by the discussions and the information on The stilwell road.
I would like to mention that in the year 2000 I along with a small team travelled the Stilwell Road and made a film on it : The Stilwell Road-Revisited.
We had to the journey in three parts – India, China and Myanmar as Myanmar would not give us permission to cross over into or out by road. So first we flew to Kunming and travelled by road to Wanding/Ruili. Then we filmed the India portion by road right from Guwahati to the Pangsau Pass, having taken permission to travel through arunachal Pradesh. Finally we did the Mayanmar portion by flying to Mytikina and then travelled by road via Bhamo to Lashio on the Mayanmar-China border. We were not permitted to travel from Mytikina to Pangsau Pass as we were told that the road was in very bad shape and could not be traversed. It was motorable up to Tanai
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
TULU, Where can I find that film your team made in 2000?
Basically that part of Ledo Road from Indian border to the Hugaung Valley has been a no-man land for a very long time, but they let the National Geographic team through to travel the whole Ledo road in 2003.
http://stage.ngm.nationalgeographic.com/features/world/asia/myanmar/burma-road-text
That part of Ledo road from Myitkyina to Namti and then to Tanai has been an all weather motorable, part sealed and mostly unsealed-dirt road as a strategic road maintained and controlled by the Burmese Army since the Sixties.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Dear Tulu,
I am in the midst to accompany 2 people up the Ledo Road and I am still waiting for the special travel permit to come through. It has been very time-consuming and tedious to obtain this piece of paper simply because there are too many steps and too many people involved in this process, worse, people who are involved in this process are those who have NEVER traveled further up north than Tanai, also known as Walabum in the WWII days.
I’ve traveled on the road twice, twice on the Burma Road as well.
I just want people to know the REAL facts about the road. Not the old facts, current ones! Many Burmese (Myanmar) from Rangoon (Yangon) hardly know this road much less to travel further up north from Myitkyina.
A trickle of Chinese have crossed into Burma to travel PARTIALLY on the Ledo road and have reached only as far as 1o or 15 miles north from Myitkyina. There are check points to cross and unless one is a Myanmar citizen, you will be asked to turn back no matter how much you try.
I do not want to talk ONLY about the difficulties about our country. There are ways to work around these things however, one MUST give alot of time to do so.
The road condition from Myitkyina to about 15 miles out of Tanai is quite good. The worse condition is from Nanyun up to Pansau.
I hope this info helps.
Sincerely – Khine
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Dear Khine,
> As I had written earlier we were not given permission to travel west
> beyond
> Mytikina, we were told that the road was not traversable and that a number
> of
> culverts had broken and not repaired.
> Yes, we ( our team of three, myself, and assisitant director and the
> cameraperson) too had a lot of difficulty in getting the required
> permissions
> for travel from Mytikina to Lashio. The Myanmar Embassy in New Delhi after
> meeting us twice over two months refused permission. The Indian Embassy in
> Yangon also said they could not help. In fact at one point of time we
> almost
> gave up as no reasons were given for rejections and that too after months.
> Finally as luck would have it we went through a Yangon based travel agent
> who
> arranged for and got the permissions.
> But a representative of the government travelled with us the entire
> distance
> and kept track. Further all the footage was copied and given to some
> government authority.
> But the positives were that the landscape from Mytikina to Lashio was
> incredibly beautiful with dense forests etc. But the road was in very bad
> shape. There was tremendous poverty and there didn’t seem to be much
> development in these areas. But then this an eight year old observation.
> Tulu Patnaik
>
>
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
From: “Tulu Patnaik”
Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 9:05 PM
To: “New Mandala”
Subject: Re: [New Mandala] New Comment On: The Stilwell Road
> Dear Hla Oo,
> I will upload the film on my facebook profile in a week’s time. Till then
> onli
> I have copies. In case you are interested I could have it couriered to
> you. It
> is in the VCD and DVd formats.
> Even when we travelled from Mytikina to Bhamo and onwards to Lashio a lot
> of
> the area was under the Kachin Independance Army. We were made to
> understand
> that the Myanmar Govt and KIA had an informal understanding of not
> interfering
> with each other.
> Could you give me a bit of your background.
> Tulu Patnaik
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Hie,
I am Namrata Goswami, conducting research in La Trobe on Conflict Issues in North East India till August 02, 2009.
It was interesting to see your website especially on the Stillwell Road since I have also travelled some of the areas like Ledo/ Margherita that you have mentioned.
Namrata
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Hello
I had the Seminar in mid-February and sadly failed to get any account of the peoples experience of the WW II in the fringes of Arunachal.There was a paper on the construction of the road based on archival material.Planning to visit the Pangsau Pass region in June during summer break.Hope I come up with something.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Sarah
Its very unlikely that you would succeed in getting direct people experiences of WW II, simply because of the elapsed time since 1942-45 and now. Even if you do get hold of surviving people from that time, they are more likely to be in Kohima Nagaland and several places in Manipur. These were actual grounds of grim and fierce fighting. The Japanese did not cut through to Dimapur from the Naga Hills. As far as Arunachal is concerned IMHO, the only area that might directly in the action would be along the Stilwell road through the Patkai hills beyond Ledo. Even those experiences would be limited, as the American-Chinese forces crossed over to the Burmese side of the Patkais – where all the action was. All these areas are predominantly Kachin and Naga tribes inhabited. The Kachin Rangers were formed and attached to the US Army under Gen Stilwell and even received Presidential citations for their extraordinary war achievements one of them being a rather grisly “highest kills per loss rate”. Interestingly the Kachins are one of the earliest instances of a sort of local militia raised by the CIA (then called OSS operating out of Assam) to fight foreign invaders, a trend which has continued till today _ Iraq and Afganistan.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Dear Sarah and others on the blog,
Hi, this is Khine from Burma.
Sarah, if you are going to visit Pangsau Pass in June, you will encounter that due to monsoon, the road will be wet, muddy and slippery.
At least that is the situation for us living in Burma to travel to the NE part of the country bordering India.
Should you need further info, please do not hesitate to contact me.
khaingt@gmail.com
Khine
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Yep as the lady says…same weather conditions in the Indian side in June and no 8 lane expressway either anywhere between Ledo and Nampong(last Indian village). Its a pity all parties concerned: India, Burma and China are just wasting such a HUGE opportunity and still clinging on to stone age status quo all in the name of “Security” but actually helplessness(sic) bred from fear, distrust and failed countries …all we have is the ghost of road testimony to some most daring feats performed in the most unlikely corner of the planet!
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Dear Sangos,
Sadly, nothing progressive would be happening soon in that remote area as long as there is a convenient or rather comfortable stalemate between Burmese Army and Kachin Independence Army, KIA.
With ever-restless hill tribe separatists on their hands, the Indian Army also wouldn’t initiate anything progressive about the Ledo Road, I guess.
At least one good thing out of the whole quagmire is that the pristine rain forest will still be standing there majestically until the bulldozers arrive in the very near future. Chinese had done that wholesale clearing on their end and converted old Burma Road into an Eight-Lane Motorway.
Hla Oo
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Have you folks seen this story from Outside? Originally published in 2003, I think, although it covers Mark Jenkins’ efforts–all by himself–over several years.
http://outside.away.com/outside/features/200310/200310_burma_1.html
In the beginning he seems pretty dumb for someone who has spent so much time climbing in the Himalayas (Is every Buddhist monk a lama? Just because an Ambassador has a 1950s body doesn’t mean the insides are that old, etc.), but hold on and by the time he gets to Myitkyina, he gets some wisdom:
“She tells me that since Myitkyina is now open to foreigners, tourists are coming. She believes someday there will be tourists on the Stilwell Road, and she wants them to know the truth. That it is not a road built by Americans. That was history. History is over. It’s a road built by the Kachins.”
His experience of Myitkyina reminds me of what Vietnam is still like if you get a little off the Lonely Planet conveyor belt: someone is always watching you, everyone knows where you are and where you’ve been.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Nice stuff Kulap and well said -there are troubles galore. On the positive side there has been lot of individual efforts of getting the move on in this obscure corner(see Khine’s website for instance); of course we are still way off from a freeway along the old stilwell road for reasons all know.
Hla Oo, you got a point all those nostalgic forests will be gone (btw how many many of those pristine trees have escaped the heavy logging in Kachin state?) You are right about Northeast India, the only saving grace being India is a democracy overriding the military. The Ledo road has been upgraded to a 2 lane national highway. But its a dead end. And then there is the more easier competing highway between India and Burma in the Kabaw valley (Moreh-Tamu)
Guess the fate of the Stilwell road(the Indian one) will depend on the level of co-operation between India and China (which can swing either way in these times of recession). And of course with Burma in agreement to the operation of the road.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Dear sangos,Khine & Hla Oo,
Thanks each of you for the advisory of the Pangsau trip.I have made my plans based on the reports of a local boy of that area who is a student in the department.Khine I shall definitely contact u as the virtual world has brought us together.I feel it is crucial as understanding the north east feels incomplete without Burma from times immemorial till 1937 as a part of British India.we are a part on the same landscape & mindscape & hence I am sentimental about these links.Let us not in the process priviledge on communities contribution over the others.Though Arunachal as not the map as a seperate entity,yet it was the North East Frontier tracts from here recruitments were made in the vicinityof the Nocte & the Adi dominated areas into the labour mobilization of the Stillwell road.They stand as the forgotten people of the forgotten army.Through my Seminar I have come to know that not only were militia’s raised in the Naga hills and Manipur,but in the region closest to the Chin Hills under the Japs,The Lushai Hills & Tripura.The Lushai Scouts were quite well known in the offensive against the Japs in 1945.In the north east the recruitment Kuki levies in the First WW led to a famous rebellion.So guerilla levies were in operation in this region during both the wars.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Hello Everyone,
We’re having serious internet problems for two weeks now, however, it seems to be working fine for the moment so I will have to be brief.
We say TIM (This is Myanmar) – because things that are taken for granted elsewhere, basic necessities such as water, electricity, etc are still scarce in a city like Rangoon (Yangon) where I live!
So you can imagine what it would be like to travel to far remote areas in the country.
Regardless of the various opinions, views and insights on this Ghost Road which I still refer to as “Stilwell”, we should not forget that this road is part of a forgotten era of WWII.
My intentions are not to get into the politics or the business potential related to the road. My interest simply lies in the fact that the lives of many people were changed before, during and after this road was built and we still a road that we have so much to learn from.
The one thing I can assure you all is that it will be highly unlikely to see anytime soon, that this road will turn into an all weather road – as Stilwell had wanted to do.
The Ledo Road in Burma going NE from Shingbwiyang is simply fascinating as one goes up into the mountains traversing thick, dense forest with small villages of Naga, Kachin, Rawan and some Burmans living in unpopulated, remote areas.
It will still be a remote area for quite sometime as there is lack of interest from the in-country business people to promote this part of Burma. And that is a good thing.
Khine
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Sarah
Good going! For military history your best live source would be the Assam Rifles HQ in Shillong, Meghalaya. They have their antecedents in the famous V-Force of WWII operating with the legendary Chindits under the redoubtable ‘Uncle Bill’ Gen Slim of the British XIVth. The recruits were local tribal youngmen led by British officers. Of course the heroics of these levies are less sung of than their Kachin counterparts in Burma fighting along with Stilwell’s Americans.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
My wife is Kachin..we reside in the USA. Kachin people are amazingly warm people… The opportunity to drive into Kachin State and learn their culture is an opportunity you shoudl not pass on.
I travelled to burma and got special permission to travel to the North or Burma…Kachin State. I brought a tour guide with me. I suggest if you do this trip, pay a local person to be your tour guide..travel with you. I do not reocmmend a military/goverment escort unless you must. Not a good situation to be in. But a local guide.maybe an english speaking guide from Yangon..meets you and travels with you. You will learn so much..and it is nice to have a burmese with you when you go through the military road blocks etc….
I travelled from Myatchina to Mandalay via car. Why? cause airlines just decided not to fly that week..and if I wanted to catch my flights home..I had to drive by car. So..go with the flow. Maybe 2-3 military road blocks along the way. Little stressful..but..I got through OK.
People wrote about Kaching army …fighting against the military. To my knowledge..the Kachin put down their arms some time ago..and they are not fighting at this time.
The one person was talking about the atrocities in Burma..well..yes, it happens. But certainly don’t be talkng about it while in Burma. Big problems..if you talk to the wrong people. foreigners need to keep quiet…No talking about the goverment. Alot of “Ears” in burma..for the goverment. Just follow the rules..and you can get a rich education about Burma..and its very diverse people.
I will voice my thoughts on the atrocities of brokers/thais that come into Burma..and recruit hilltribe and/or poor burmese to come to Thailand for “Work”. They pay families $500 for their daughters..bring them to Thailand.and then sell them into sex slave industry. Terrible things…and I hope to help many of those girls in Thailand…but..again..this is not the sort of discussion you have while in Burma.
Burma is beautiful…
If it was me..I’d drive my motorcycle throughout..on a photo adventure.
Quality comment or not?
1 
0
I stumbled on your website, relating to ‘The Famous Stilwell Road’, a place, very close to my heart and which cost a life for every mile of its length….I have trundled through and read the reams of questions and answers to you, from the many, would be, expeditionists who ‘s aspirations are to traverse through that forgotten road, to, or from, Singapore, where very few expeditions have ventured before….. I can fully understand all their fears and frustration of whether those Burmese visas would ever be forthcoming, or were they just banging their heads against the wall….In 1957, I travelled overland to Singapore, driving a Land Rover. The sheer frustration of being refused, time after time again, a Burmese visa, to enter the BURMA Road at Ledo, made me decide to go without one and sort it all out when I reached Calcutta….. In Calcutta, I was again refused permission, so, taking a big risk, I hoodwinked the Indian and Burmese authorities and went straight through ,via Thailand and Malaya to Singapore…….After a visit to Australia and a 4,5oo mile drive across the Australian desert, I returned to Singapore for the return journey back to the u/k….. Again, in Singapore .I was refused permission to travel back through Burma, and for an unbelievable second time, I hoodwinked the Burmese, by reconstituting my documents, giving myself permission to drive a second time through the Stilwell/Ledo Road…..Although some might say that I was foolhardy, I would have to agree with them, but if you want something badly enough, some are prepared to go that extra mile to succeed….. I would not, in this day and age, believe that it would ever be possible, for this to be repeated……..To my knowledge I believe that I am the only person to have traversed the Burma/Stilwell/Ledo Road in both directions…..I wrote a book a few months ago about this 40,ooo mile journey, the title is; ‘The Impossible Takes a Little Longer’… Thought you may be interested.
Eric Edis
Quality comment or not?
2 
0
Even if this blog is over 2 years old I guess its never late to return and post here. Like the road itself and the part of the world where it sits everything moves slow. But maybe things are picking up lately a little bit. …
http://www.toboc.com/tradenews/myanmar-will-bring-china-and-india-closer-by-reopening-old-route/1429.aspx
Btw what is interesting is the news of the Chinese made highway upto Tanai in Hukwang, Burma. Anybody from there who can give us a visual confirmation on the ground? Also looks like its India’s bit now to build the remaining piece to Ledo. Btw the Indian roads on the other side of Ledo are 4 lane highways. With the ‘security’ situation improved in its Northeast areas and ever increasing economic engagement with China, looks like old Stilwell’s going to roll once again into life!
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
the road is re opening http://english.dvb.no/news.php?id=3218
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
AFAIK its still way to go on the ground from India into Burma before we see the wheels rolling. Of course the people of the area are very excited about it all, as we all are. Here’s a link to the annual pow wow of the local tribes
http://www.amazingarunachal.com/ppwf2010/index.html
They also had a rally of lumbering old vintage jeeps some from WW2 time on a short stretch of Stilwell over the border (click on the gallery tab)
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Dear Sangos,
Thanks for the link on Arunachal and on the Pangsau Pass Winter Festival; wonderful photos and it is really something if anyone can visit that part of the World that has almost zero exposure.
I have received a few emails with regards to my next trip on “Stilwell Road”. As I am unable to bring any westerners past “Tanai”, to organize the “Ledo Road” will be quite limited. Besides, the road becomes more interesting once we past Shinbwiyang and climb into the Paktai mt. range.
I’ve also been informed that some Burmese officials have attended the Naga Festival this year that took place in Nanyun which is 30 miles from Pangsau.
Since “Ledo Road” Expedition becomes limited, I’ve decided to organize a trip on Stilwell Road. If anyone is interested, I’m launching it for March 10 and it starts from Kunming, ending in Yangon. You will travel the entire length of Burma Road and partially on the Ledo.
Thanks for all the comments. The news in Burma about opening up this Ledo Road is somewhat uncertain and inconsistent.
Sincerely – Khine
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
@Khine
Nice to know! There is plenty tourist activity on the Indian side, which unfortunately gets cut off at Pangsau due to the restrictions. Hopefully these should finally be sorted out if the road actually reopens to traffic from India into Burma and finally China. There is a good reason why this road is important, being all weather as opposed to the other land routes between India and China over the frozen Himalayas.
All pictures in the Amazing Arunachal website are by Arif Siddique, an amazing lensman who runs the site as well.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Not an Indian face in the crowd. They all look like either Nagas or Kachins. I bet all the magistrates, district administrators, police officers, prison superintendents, and especially the army officers lording over them are all Indians sent direct from the proper India.
British took these remote territories away from Burma and incorporated into their India after the Anglo-Burmese wars. It’s about time Burma to reclaim her former territories of Assam and Manipur from India.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
@Hla Oo
I can see where you are coming from in your post.
You are right- these are local tribes, mainly Tangsa (naga family) and Singpho (Kachin) and other tribes closely related to Burma. Most Goverment officers are however locals (Arunachalees as they are called in India), but you are right as some of them are from proper India. That is however routine in this country – like the Governor of Bombay is a Naga; the Police boss of Bangalore is a Mizo(Burmese Chin) etc.
About Burmese reclamation of Assam and Manipur, that is an open question really depending on the terms of the original Anglo-Burmese treaty. Does someone have a copy still
Quality comment or not?
1 
0
Dear Sangos,
Sorry, I forgot to add the Andaman and Nicobar Islands also on the list of territories Burma has to reclaim from India. Chinese will be really, really happy to permanently station a fleet of their mighty navy there.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Dear Sangos,
We Burmese still have the copy of Anglo-Burmese treaty signed under duress of British cannons at the Burmese village of Yandabo in 1826.
Treaty of Yandaboo, 24 February 1826
ARTICLE 1.
There shall be perpetual peace and friendship between the Honorable Company on the one part, and His Majesty the King of Ava on the other.
ARTICLE 2.
His Majesty the King of Ava renounces all claims upon, and will abstain from all future interference with, the principality of Assam and its dependencies, and also with the contiguous petty States of Cachar and Jyntia. With regard to Munnipoor it is stipulated, that should Ghumbheer Sing desire to return to that country, he shall be recognized by the King of Ava as Rajah thereof.
ARTICLE 3.
To prevent all future disputes respecting the boundary line between the two great Nations, the British Government will retain the conquered Provinces of Arracan, including the four divisions of Arracan, Ramree, Cheduba, and Sandoway, and His Majesty the King of Ava cedes all right thereto. The Unnoupectoumien or Arakan Mountains (known in Arakan by the name of the Yeomatoung or Pokhingloung Range) will henceforth form the boundary between the two great Nations on that side. Any doubts regarding the said line of demarcation will be settled by Commissioners appointed by the respective governments fur that purpose, such Commissioners from both powers to be of suitable and corresponding rank.
ARTICLE 4.
His Majesty the King of Ava cedes to the British Government the conquered Provinces of Yeh, Tavoy, and Mergui and Tenasserim, with the islands and dependencies thereunto appertaining, taking the Salween River as the line of demarcation on that frontier ; any doubts regarding their boundaries will be settled as specified in the concluding part of Article third.
ARTICLE 5.
In proof of the sincere disposition of the Burmese Government to maintain the relations of peace and amity between the Nations, and as part indemnification to the British Government for the expenses of the War, His Majesty the King of Ava agrees to pay the sum of one crore of Rupees.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Burma section will never open til the Junta is removed from power in Burma.
Today, the Chin and Kachin States/Tribes are very welcoming people and I believe they would love to open the roadway, with some reasonable controls. Norther states have a very nice mix of religion and they are very open to foreigners. I especially like because much of the older population in Burma still speak some English due to the WWII influences.
But the Junta puts great restrictions on foreigner involvement with the northern States of Burma. Why? Because Chin & Kachin state would love to separate and come under its own rule. Kachin State has had its own militia military, and still today, it exists but it is at a stand down with the Junta’s military. Junta restricts all Int’l travel to the north. I need a special permit to go visity my wife’s family in the Kachin State.
It would be a beautiful thing to drive across india, into burma and end up in China. Someday, Someday.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
@David – nice thoughtful comments. Yes its unfortunate that this area with so much potential should lie in such imposed isolation. While I also feel it has preserved the traditions and environment, this isolation has deprived the people of all the innovations of the modern world. The Stilwell Road is their only hope and thankfully we see some movement in that direction in spite of all the problems as you are aware. And it is due to the two emerging giants India and China working in tandem.
@ Hla Oo – Thanks! Is there some provision in the treaty of these areas (thats actually the most of India’s Northeast Btw) being returned to Burma – something like British Hong Kong returned to China in 1992. I am no expert on law but such a document would have valid international mandate. Also am not sure if the Junta is ready to take on India on this matter. They seem more interested in playing India against China – correct me.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Link to some of more Siddique’s work…nuf said:)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/siddiqui/
Btw the Winter festival has caught the imagination of the people in India. It has served to create awareness and exposure of a little known region and the road. With the major insurgent groups ULFA and NSCN under ceasefire, there are good chances of India pushing the road into Burma.
Quality comment or not?
0 
0
Please do not miss the 2011 Pangsau Pass Winter Festival this year on the 20th, 21st & 22nd January and the car rally to meet at Dibrugarh on 20th January, 2011.
Quality comment or not?
1 
0